Singapore...places in the city. (Click here to check out my daily life. Click here for food reports. Click here for wildlife, sorta.)

Disneyland with a death penalty? Or a nice place to live? Sometimes it's hard to know the difference...

 
Singapore's Central Business District. The famous Raffles Hotel, where all sorts of bigwig writers have stayed & what's supposed to embody colonial charm. It's a pretty building. It's required by law, I think, to go to this place. In fact, I believe that if you're here for more than a week & don't go to the Long Bar to get a Singapore Sling, they kick you out of the country. Could just be a vicious rumor. I know you're wondering why I included this boring picture of cars and buildings. Well, what you're looking at is the largest fountain in the world. That's it, right there in the middle. Awestriking, no? (By the way, those cars there are crazy expensive. Cars in S'pore cost over $100K for just a plain old boring car, & over $200K for a nice one. Crazy. And yet people have them.) Here's a view from across the river of Boat Quay, an area with lots of restos & bars. It's better from here than up close. About 80% of S'poreans live in big ugly HDBs (gov't subsidized housing) like these. Expats usually live in condos. Very few people live in private houses. I like these buildings because they look like durians. These nice men sit around on Arab Street at the only Yemen restaurant in town as if it were their living room. They smoke sheeshas (another name for hookah) & sip ginger tea every night, & are the warmest, friendliest people I met in all of Singapore. I highly recommend this place. Some of that ubiquitous construction work going on in front of some of those ubiquitous HDB flats. Here's a hawker center, basically an outdoor food court, super cheap, super scrumptious, super authentic food is served in these places. Another one. It costs about S$4 to eat really well at one of these places. Yum! This is Chinatown. Why, you may very well wonder, is there a Chinatown in a country that's already 75% Chinese? Good question. Whatever the reason, this place does have a different ambience than the rest of S'pore. You can buy mysterious tinctures & get bargains on electronic stuff, as well as eat great Chinese food. This beautiful old Chinese temple was transformed into a small museum. That doorframe is purposely raised in order to trip any demons who might try to enter the place. Clearly, if I was able to get in, something's wrong with the system. Here's that same temple cum museum. Here are a couple of views of a diorama set up in that temple museum. They're supposed to depict how Chinatown looked traditionally, before it was reinvented by Lee Kwan Yew in the 1960s. This temple museum also had bits of ephemera and popular culture, like these old East-West fusion pop records from the 60s. A very formidable and blue Hindu deity perched on the corner of a temple. Another blue Hindu deity, surrounded by his sacred cows. Little India is my favorite part of town in Singapore. It has life & oomph & grit & character. Plus, I like Indian food & fashions best. The buildings here are old & crumbly, unlike most places in S'pore, where everything is new, maintained, and overly scrubbed. But there are still those big ugly buildings looming in the background, just to remind you where you are. The colors on these Hindu temples are incredible. He's making leaf packets full of betel nut to chew. It's kind of like chewing tobacco, except it turns your mouth orange. Carol has her mouth full with betel. This is an impressive building, but I'm not sure what's inside. Sentosa Island is the most plastic of all places in Singapore. The Merlion in the middle has eyes that light up and do a laser show at night. But Sentosa offers the only beach in Singapore. That's Ingrid, Me, Tioma, and Carol. In typically surreal fashion, Singapore has a huge subculture of country western line dancers. Hundreds of Chinese people gather every weekend, all decked out in their cowboy hats and boots, to dance to music I shunned when I actually lived in Texas. Whoda thunk?

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